Serge Lutens Fleur dOranger, A hugely precious ingredient, this with a heart-stopping price-tag. Theres a romantic (if slightly gory) Greek legend woven around hyacinth, actually: according to myth, the flower grew from the blood of Hyacinthus, a youth accidentally killed by Apollo and even today, in Greece, the flower stands for remembrance. And there's whale fecal matter involved in this musky scent. Common allergens fall into the five classes as detailed below: natural rubber, fragrances, preservatives, dyes, and metals. Clever perfumers know that other woods deliver similar effects, and can be used to replace its richness. Cartier Cartier de Lune Linum usitatissimum): it gives us both linen and linseed (highly nutritious, and also terrific as an oil applied to wooden furniture to keep the elements at bay). The ingredients used to create this are a mixture of both natural and synthetic, commonly used are vanilla, patchouli, labdanum, styrax, benzoin and a few more. The lasting power is 10 - 12 hours with great projection. Giorgio Armani Acqua di Gio Its use actually goes way, way back: the Ancient Greeks burned rosemary as incense, and it became part of religious ceremony (and even exorcisms): the smoke of rosemary is deeply cleansing. Unfortunately, the downside of citral is that it can lead to sensivities and allergies so IFRA (the International Fragrance Association) regulates that it has to be used only with other ingredients that prevent a sensitising effect, and insist its labelled. Enter a young, widowed innkeeper, who sat for the painter and also, its said, became his lover. Ormonde JayneFrangipani. Arum lily, calla lily, Easter lily: three names for one southern African native flower, which has the botanical name of Zantedeschia aethiopica. You can sprinkle it in tiny amounts, and you can overdose it," says perfumer Juliette Karagueuzoglou. Dior Addict Juicy, sharp, tangy: depending on when theyre harvested, blackberries (not actually berries but fruits, BTW) can be luscious and sweet, or slightly sour. Another important ingredient in masculine perfumes is vetiver. Illicium verum has to be the most beautiful-looking spice ever: star-shaped, with tiny, pungently-scented seeds. So warm, metallic almost, spicy of course, gourmand, hitting the nose with memories of rice pudding with cinnamon sugar, and making your saliva flow. As tended to happen at bacchanales, he imbibed too much, and became somewhat over-amorous towards a priestess. Succulent, juicy, drippingly sweet: mango works wonderfully in summer perfumes in particular, delivering that hint-of-the-tropics perfumers seek to capture in a bottle. ), Run your fingers over the leaves of a redcurrant bush, and youll get a catty quality thats distinctive, intriguing but not to everyones taste. The fruit of Ribes rubrum itself, though, is fruity, green and tart, often incorporated into a cocktail of fruity notes which are then woven mostly into fruity-florals: that category of perfumes whose star has been in the ascendant, in recent years often fresh, youthful and vibrant. Whoosh! In perfumery, date is used as a fruitily sweet fantasy note especially in gourmand fragrances giving a drizzle of caramel, honeyed, buttery sweetness. Yardley English Lavender, Supermarket and garage forecourt carnations are mostly a huge disappointment because the spicy, clove-y smell you get when burying your nose in a garden-picked bloom is generally missing. Lacoste Pour Femme Ah, bluebells: those nodding, beautiful five-petalled spring flowers that seem so quintessentially English but actually flourish anywhere from here to northern Spain, with over 500 species in all. Chanel Cristalle Xerjoff Shooting Stars Collection: Esquel, It sounds synthetic. ALDEHYDE Gucci Gucci by Gucci But theres also a teeny touch of vanilla to oak (synthetic vanillin, used in many baked goods and confectionery, is derived from wood shavings! The ancient Arab perfumers were the first to capture honeys sweetness in perfumery, but today the honey featured is generally a synthetic note one thats drizzled sensually over quite a few fragrances in the past few years. Of course theres no way to capture that smell naturally, so perfumers turn to chemistry to recreate that evocative scent. There are a couple of twists on petitgrain: a form known as citronnier is distilled from the leaves of the lemon tree, in Mediterranean areas; as youd imagine, its more yes lemony. (The shoots, leaves and seeds are also used in cooking, while ambrette flowers are sometimes used to add scent and flavour to tobacco). It brings out the flavors of ginger, onions, adds warmth to the cocktail of exotic flavors from clove, pepper, cumin, fenugreek. Everyone knows what an orange smells like, of course: that burst of zest as you dig your fingers into the waxy skin to break into this juiciest of fruits. Burberry Brit It's a combination of synthetic and natural ingredients such as vanilla, patchouli, labdanum, styrax, and benzoin," says Medina. And they smell lovely. And in just one instance Escentric Molecules Molecule 01, created by daring contemporary perfumer Geza Schoen its been made the star of the show. Not the ones we now buy in supermarkets, which have become such a popular design statement. It has fruity undertones (peachy, pear-y, banana-y, apple-y), but complements white flowers wonderfully. Guerlain Vetiver Both give a snuggly, cosy-sexy feel to fragrances but amber is a fantasy (synthetic note), and ambergris is a whale by-product (NB no whales are harmed in its production, which is a completely fascinating process). Boucheron Boucheron The history of incense itself goes back thousands of years in fact, the first perfumes were burned, not worn: perfume actually gets its name from per fumum, or through smoke. Guerlain Samsara Eventually, it is retrieved from a shoreline on the beach." Sensual, for sure, but again, with a more delicate touch. (Theyre left in a cool, dry place, and need protection against fungus and insect attack which would destroy the producers valuable harvest.). This flowering shrub pulses out its potent scent very powerfully, in its native west Africa. Youll find heliotrope in many legendary Guerlain fragrances, as well as countless contemporary gourmand scents. (We also list this ingredient under E, for Everlasting Flower) All refer to small herb, which somehow manages to thrive in the most inhospitable, rocky, sun-baked zones in southern Europe; its yellow flowers stay incredibly bright, even after theyve been dried. Burberry Body In perfumery, it lends itself most beautifully to Ambres, working its exotic magic in many much-loved scents. In India, meanwhile, its known for its aphrodisiac powers (young women are advised not to breathe its scent, after dark.) If someone asks a perfumer what balsamic means, wed hand them a pot of tolu. Lady Gaga Fame Think: gin. J-Lo Glo It also cured snakebite, increased fertility and was a cornerstone of Four Thieves Vinegar, a blend of herbs alleged to ward off the plague. Fern blends perfectly with lavender, oakmoss and coumarin, in fragrance creation. There truly is an oudh for all tastes, now! Ever. bellflowers offer up an essential oil which has been described as reminiscent of a clear spring day. The odor profile of this multifaceted material includes sweet fresh hay notes along with blond tobacco and soft, creamy nut-like nuances," says perfumer Gwen Gonzalez. (It clearly has extraordinary preservative powers, able to preserve skin for millennia.) ", "Musk is an aromatic base note derived from a combination of natural and synthetic sources. Prada Intense Prada Relics from the burning of incense, dating back thousands of years, have been uncovered by archaeologists. The perennial lant itself, of course, is gorgeous: tall, with blowsy short-lived flowers that come in a rainbow of shades. Happily, its so concentrated that only a small amount need be used (although several very sophisticated scents do ramp up the tuberose, as a star ingredient). Petit-what? By Kilian Back to Black This native of Central and South Asia, a relative of hops, is now probably grown in every country of the world (albeit quite often in attics under gro-lights). CK One Shock for Her gives us petitgrain, but in this case its mostly the leaves and twigs from which the oil is extracted. The Body Shop Midnight Bakula (I missany experience there, but I imagine what it might be like!) Its more romantic French name is mousse de chne, but this tight-curled plant botanical name Evernia prunastri - is actually a lichen which grows on oaks throughout Europe and North Africa, only flourishing in unpolluted air. Agent ProvocateurMaitresse Lancme O de Lancme Sarah McCartney of 4160 Tuesdays shared her thoughts with us on mandarin: 'Its childhood Christmases for me. Chopard Wish The poisonous, hallucinogenic black berries are what were most familiar with (and warned about, as kids). There are dried fruits giving it a gourmand character, supported by what brings "cocoa" to mind. Well, these days you wont only find this liqueur in a glass, but in some gourmand fragrances. Half-way between a berry and a rose, wed say this note is. (In fact, if youve ever parked your car under a linden tree in full flower, it does just that, dropping sticky, furry and fiendishly difficult-to- remove syrup onto the paintwork). ), while others describe it as creamy, musky or labdanum-like. As perfumer Alienor Massenet explains, 'Freesia in perfumery is an imaginary reconstitution - but the smell is gorgeous.' (Some people think it smells like crushed ivy leaves. It looks like cinnamon. Sarah Jessica Parker Lovely Say papyrus and you probably think of an ancient form of paper, crafted from this member of the sedge (grass) family as an alternative to using wood (its botanical name is Cyperus papyrus). Juliette Has A Gun Midnight Oud (Its also used in folk medicine.) International Flavors & Fragrances, who trademarked Iso E Super, describe it as a smooth, woody, amber note, with a velvet-like sensation. Roger & Gallet Jean-Marie Farina Goutal ParisMyrrhe Ardente In general, they lend themselves well to mens scents, though there are some feminine examples, too. Because of those herby qualities, rosemarys used with only the lightest touch in female perfumes, though more widely in so-called mens scents. LArtisan Parfumeur Jour de Fte I love to cook with cinnamon. Miller Harris Jasmin Vert. Escentric Molecules Molecule 03. It smells sweet, but not as cloying as hyacinth. Through the rise in popularity of fruity-floral fragrances, apples been having a moment in the sun. Unlike rose or jasmine, which are more familiar, you may never have smelled a magnolia up close but this family of flowering trees is worth sniffing out, especially the Magnolia grandiflorum variety. Diptyque Philosykos Eau de Toilette This unisex . Este Lauder Knowing Theres a fog of confusion about amber, and ambergris. Dali Wild Adding a nutty quality, actually: soft, almost snuggly or skin-like. Jo Malone London Pomegranate Noir. But a citron fruit (Citrus medica) is rarer than a lemon and not nearly so juicy. Halston Woman Amber Creed Orange Spice Rich, warm, luxurious and comforting, honey works wonderfully to emphasise floral notes, or add touches of amberiness. Marc Jacobs Daisy Eau So Fresh Kiss You can enjoy it in colognes, Ambres chypres, as well as petal-perfect florals. Then later, it was discovered by (and became popular with) Greek and Roman perfumers. And though its more popular in Indian perfumes, papyrus can still be enjoyed in some stunning contemporary scents. Frederic Malle Iris Poudre Today, of course, its not the natural stuff that perfumers use, but a huge array of synthetic musks, ranging from sweet, powdery musks to almost metallic versions. That whoosh of uplifting zestiness is precisely why perfumers love to use it: as a sweet, refreshing, sadly fleeting top note, very often in colognes but also in Ambre and fruity-floral scents. Giorgio Armani Acqua di Gioia Essenza Much was made, not long ago, of the discovery on a British beach of a whacking great lump of greyish-beige waxy material which turned out to be worth thousands of pounds. How mysterious is that, as a fragrant ingredient? Bond No. Giorgio Armani Idole dArmani The leaves and twigs give us petitgrain (read more about that here), while the cold-pressed peel of the fruit gives us bigarade (click here for more). And with the profusion of gourmand fragrances out there, honey-lovers can easily find themselves in sweet heaven. But in perfumery, I love it for its multitude of facets. Magnolia is one of those blowsy white floral ingredients that perfumers just love, love, love: creamily sweet, but with a fresh edge to its petal power. Aniseed, licorice, fennel, tarragon: star anise reminds us of all of these. GuerlainAqua Allegoria Bouquet de Mai The hairy-skinned green or red fruit add a tart, prettily fruity edge to fragrances mostly fruity-florals. But not any more: this seriously exotic, intense, rich fragrance note is at the top of the price scale for ingredients though even so, its still present in as much as 40% of quality perfume creations. Our perfume bottles are made from 100% recyclable and sustainable materials, aside from the pump. Britney Spears Fantasy Guerlain Eau de Cologne Impriale An aldehyde (see below) with a characteristic green, musky odor, "Agrumen is a fragrance compound used as a base in perfume creation," explains Spongell CEO Elaine Binder. Floris Edwardian Bouquet Floris Fleur In Brief Cosmoprof Worldwide Bologna is back for the 2023 edition Firmenich launches fragrance-making 'rules' to improve focus and boost attention Dior Diorissimo Acqua di Parma Colonia Acqua di Parma Thierry Mugler Angel Unable to leave behind the beauty of his image, Narcissus died to be replaced by this flower, Boadicea the Victorious Magnificent Opoponax catches alight easily, which explains why its been used for incense for centuries: King Solomon apparently regarded opopanax as the noblest of incense gums. (Just like in baking.) A sack of potatoes. Este Lauder Private Collection Tuberose Gardenia But in the perfumers repertoire, its a pricy ($4,000+ a kilo), refined ingredient worth its weight in gold sometimes blended with synthetics that bring out its peachiness, however. Labdanum comes from the resin of the twigs and branches of a Mediterranean shrub widely found in the south of France, Spain, and North Africa. Your memory isnt deceiving you: if youve ever buried your nose in a bunch of these beautiful, delicate blue (or sometimes white or pink) flowers hoping for a whiff of something equally gorgeous, youll have been disappointed: theyve almost no scent at all. The Pheasants Eye Narcissus (a.k.a. Ylang yang is also luscious, buttery, a little apricot-y and when smelled neat is a tad medicinal, too. Sometimes it works, sometimes it doesnt. Madonna Truth or Dare Florentine iris ticks perfumers boxes, too. "Rose is a universal childhood memory, which almost anyone has smelled in a garden and knows; it can also give way to endless reinterpretations," says perfumer Caroline Dumur. Azzaro Baccarat Rouge 540 Bath & Body Works Black Opium Burberry Bvlgari. "Typically musks add texture to fragrances and give them depth," says Illolahia. Orange blossom absolute is richer, sweeter, headier there are hints of that other white flower, jasmine, about it (and if you look at its chemical make-up, there are similar aroma compounds in both). Then the leaves are either CO2-extracted, or steam-distilled. Yves Saint Laurent Opium. Although ink-y notes can come from natural materials like oakmoss, it generally isnt really ink that youll smell in a scent. Escada Escada Another note of warning: in its purest commercial form, citral can paralyse the nose for several hours, making it impossible to smell anything at all. When hawthorn blooms, you know springs here. As an alternative, perfumers have turned to synthetic oud, although trained noses will tell you that it smells plainer, woody and leathery but without the warm, balsamic qualities. Plenty of people seem to find tobacco almost as addictive in perfumery as cigarettes or cigars but its a healthier way to indulge, for sure. ', He continues: 'I do not use that many fruit chords in my creations, butraspberry is just perfect with roses. Dior Dune The name comes from the Latin, so were told: lavere means to wash, and the Romans perfumed their baths with lavender oil. In voodoo, datura is used to induce Zombification. The fern most widely used in perfumery is the Common Male Fern, which grows widely in Britain and the rest of Europe. Lorenzo Villoresi Patchouli Issey Miyake would like us to think so: his iconic LEau dIssey was created to conjure up the purity and clarity of water. But its use goes way back: musk makes its first appearance in the 6th Century, brought from India by Greek explorers. Katy Perry Meow Its long been considered to have aphrodisiac properties, when eaten though if spicy scents turn you on, maybe when dabbed onto pulse-points, too. Quince was used by the early Arab perfumers, by the Greeks and Romans: they steeped the fruit in oil, and made a perfume from its flowers that was called Melinum. What is it? Ralph Lauren Safari (No surprise that in aromatherapy, bergamot is actually used to treat depression) For perfumers, its invaluable for helping to blend notes into a single bouquet, and fix them there. is a member of the olive family.). Grs Cabotine Lacoste Pour Femme Isabella RosselliniManifesto So long as the lily flowers you buy are indeed fragrant, theyll pump their sweetness into the air without fading for a couple of weeks at a time, Cacharel Anas Anas It can also be created synthetically and often is, why may explain why the brands which use real jasmine are so keen to share its story, No wonder its known simply as La Fleur, in the perfume world or The Flower Because theres probably no note (other than the aforementioned rose) which is so important, to noses, Acqua di Parma Gelsomino Nobile Goutal Rose Pompon Gucci Gucci by Gucci It has more character than sweet orange; it seems naughtier to me. Now, though, theres a way through which is glorious news for chypre-lovers everywhere. Local Perfume Ingredients View Gallery RELATED STORY: Tags: Olfactive Studio Still Life Versace Crystal Noir. This well-known shrubby perennial garden herb, Salvia officinialis, was used to ward off evil in ancient times. Eucalyptus honey. The smell is to attract the type of insect that pollinates the plant: some clearly get off on pretty smells, others on stinkers.). Este Lauder Private Collection Burberry Buberry Women (For more about violet leaf, though, which smells green and aquatic, click here.) Andy TauerUne Rose Vermeille Sprinkled in the footprints of a lover, its said to keep them from wandering. As it cures in saltwater it becomes gray, hence the name ambergris or gray amber. ', Atelier Cologne rose Anonyme 19. Chemist Gunther Ohloff once described ambergris as humid, earthy, faecal, marine, algoid, tobacco-like, sandalwood-like, sweet, animal, musky and radiant. The name comes from the Latin: resedo means to heal, and the Romans used it as a charm against ailments. Marc Jacobs Daisy Eau So Fresh Ethyl acetate Sweet solvent derived from wine. This came after animal studies linked fragrance ingredient p-cymene to headaches, weakness, & irritability, along with the reduction in number and density of brain synapses. (Its been called the scent of the 60s, because the essential oil was often worn neat on the skin of music-loving, party-loving and sometimes drug-loving youth.) Neroli is a citrus oil distilled from the blossoms of either the sweet or bitter orange tree. Elizabeth Arden Green Tea The daisy-like chamomile isnt one note, its two because different varieties offer different nuances to a perfumer. Walk through a garden especially at dusk and youll smell honeysuckle way before you see it: heady and nectarous, a little like jasmine tinged with vanilla. The Sambucus nigra flowers white, frothy, umbrella-like actually go much further when theyre used for making drinks (elderflowers a popular cordial). Ormonde Jayne Frangipani But perfumers wouldnt be without patchouli, for the richness that it gives to fragrances and not just those heady Ambres: patchouli makes its way into many chypre and powdery fragrances, swirling exotically alongside lavender, sandalwood, labdanum and bergamot, clove, clary sage, as well as vetiver. Medicinal, too, actually: soft, almost snuggly or skin-like, perfumers. Scent very powerfully, in its native west Africa, banana-y, apple-y ), while others describe as! Use that many fruit chords in my creations, butraspberry is just perfect with roses perfume ingredients by brand west Africa power! Ethyl acetate sweet solvent derived from wine you can enjoy it in tiny amounts, and can be used replace... Smell naturally, so perfumers turn to chemistry to recreate that evocative.! `` cocoa '' to mind many legendary guerlain fragrances, preservatives, dyes and.. ), these days you wont only find this liqueur in a scent Intense prada Relics from burning. 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